1 Iris Frank Adams rhizome, tall bearded, historic, 2 tone color

Description: 1 IRIS Frank Adams Rhizome, tall bearded, late spring blooming, fragrant rosy tan and rosy red color - 2 tones Frank Adams E. G. Lapham, 1937 TB 48" ML Y9M A classic - hardy, with very vigorous growth. Now after all these years it is widespread across the country. From Cooley's Gardens catalog for 1940: "A tall and very well proportioned large new iris with rosy tan standards and rosy red falls. Produced by E.G. Lapham, of Elkhart Indiana. Flowers, stalk and foliage are of unusually large size." From National Iris Garden's catalog for 1942: "Golden-bronze and red. Closed standards of golden-bronze; velvety, down-falling falls of medium rose-red, with veining on gold ground conspicuous at haft. Large flowers on good stalks." (Rameses X Jerry), HM 1938, AM 1940. These rhizomes are this year's new growth, will be small as all from overgrown beds, but with a season to grow they will get bigger and produce even more rhizomes as well as flowers. They are trimmed and ready to plant. Following is some useful information: "Bearded irises can be divided any time after your last frost date in the spring, but many irisarians believe the optimal time to divide them is 6-8 weeks after bloom. Avoid transplanting irises in very hot weather (90+ F degrees), but do get them transplanted back into the ground a couple months before freezing weather to give them time to root in well before winter. Irises sometimes take a year off bloom after transplantation to settle into their new homes, so don't be too disappointed if you don't get bloom the spring after planting. Irises moved before bloom will often lose their bloom that season as well. You should transplant these irises into an area providing at least 6 hrs of direct sunlight a day. Prepare a new planting area or rejuvenate an existing bed by making sure the soil is well-drained and properly fertilized. Though iris gardeners often dig a bit of superphosphate into the soil to feed the rhizomes and help promote future bloom, it's actually a wiser tactic to fertilize according to the needs of your particular soil. This can be determined through a soil test performed by your county extension agent. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers. Excessive nitrogen can promote bacterial soft rot in bearded irises. When you plant your irises, make sure the top surface of the rhizome is level with or just slightly below the soil surface. If you bury the rhizome too deeply, the plant may refuse to flower. Do NOT mulch directly over the rhizomes. Mulch will tend to retain too much soil moisture right around the rhizomes and promote bacterial soft rot (unless you live in a hot desert climate). If you have the room, plant your irises about 2' apart with no other plants nearby to overgrow them and compete for soil nutrients. You can also plant 3 separate rhizomes in a triangle 1' apart with the leaf fans facing outwards to produce an instant clump effect. Water the irises deeply once a week for the first month if there is not adequate rainfall. Avoid frequent, shallow waterings. Overwatering is another common cause of soft rot problems. Just so you understand how the bearded iris life cycle progresses - each individual rhizome will only produce one flower stalk during its lifetime. After (and sometimes before) it flowers, it will turn its energy toward producing "increases" (new rhizomes growing from the sides of the "mother" rhizome). After these new rhizomes grow to blooming size and eventually flower, they will then become "mothers" and grow increases of their own. That is how single rhizomes turn into clumps over the course of a few years and why they need to be divided when the clumps become overcrowded and deplete soil nutrients." Will combine shipping when possible No International Shipping Please email with any questions you may have about this listing or for a custom listing to meet your specific requirements.

Price: 12 USD

Location: White City, Kansas

End Time: 2024-08-16T16:47:39.000Z

Shipping Cost: 0 USD