PUSH CLAY MOLD fairy wish upon a star + instructions for polymer clay at bottom

Description: We have an extended handling time. There is a limit of 4 items you may purchase in a 10 day time frame. IF YOU NEED SOMETHING SPECIAL PLEASE CONTACT ME THRU EBAY'S SELLER'S CONTACT LINK AND ASK. i BET I HAVE WHAT YOU NEED OR I CAN CARVE IT AND OFFER THE MOLD FOR YOU. YOU WILL NEVER BE UNDER ANY OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE IF IT IS NOT EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANTED. RULER IS IN PHOTO ABOVE. THE FAIRY IS ABOUT 1.5 INCHES FROM TOP TO BOTTOM. Directions for using molds at bottom...scroll down Note: we have an extended delivery time. You will see they are worth the wait. They are made to order and you may request the depth of your mold at time of purchase. My molds are made of my own organic polymer clay compound I have made and sold for several years on ebay with customer satisfaction. I have a limit on how many listings a customer may purchase in a 2 week time frame (4) Title: polymer clay push press moldof Fairy wishing upon a star You will be getting a mold of this gorgeous fairy and not the gold metal casting. There are many things you can do using my mold. Know that you can use it over and over again too for many of your art projects. Use polymer clay and make yourself a pendant for a necklace, make a brooch. This is an example of what our molds look like. You are getting one mold of the featureed Fairy Figure We have an extended handling time not counting days in transit, holidays or Sundays. Via ebays seller's listing option; I have a limit of how many items a customer may purchase in a 2 week period. (4) My molds are organic and time consuming to produce. PaymentIf buying multiple purchases then please do not pay until you add to ebay's cart and then request a total from me for combined shipping. If you are purchasing only one item please continue to ebay's checkout. Shipping This one item will ship for $4.95 first class. Warranty & Returns I accept returns. I know the molds work because I test each one for quality.There might be imperfections on the back and sides of the molds, but the impression will be the best I can get for you. Please keep in mind these are not mass produced, each one is handcrafted and no two will ever be the same. Terms of Use My molds are a labor of love. I take great pride in handcrafting each one. When you ask me a question,I will get right back to you within 24 hours. Instructions for using my hard push molds with polymer clay below. Use a release agent for the molds. Put the molds in the fridge for a few minutes before you take a mold.....especially the face molds. Scroll downThese instructions are for using polymer clay in my molds. You do not need a kiln with polymer clay, just an oven or toaster oven. If using polymer clay these instructions are helpful: My molds work for polymer clay, craft porcelain, paper mache, cellucraft, utee, PMC, Air dried clay, you could use your own home made paper mache, and I just used dryer lent as my grandkids keep getting into all of my clay, molten silver and gold (not for face molds) food but do not bake food or anything else in them. Read this, you may know everything in this info already, but it is worth it if you only learn one thing. Helpful hint: put the mold in the fridge first for about 10 minutes before you take your impression and it comes out very clear. We use Kato, premo or sculpey III They make polymer doll clays but daughters like to mix their own and they even mix brands of polymer clays to get their desired flesh tones. Kato cures at a higher temperature at 300 degrees. Go slow, do not get your oven too hot and burn your clay. Below Read it all before you use the mold please. They need to be powdered before you push the clay into them. If using food, flour or put powdered sugar in them as a release agent and I think my son uses oil for pmc. On the face molds, the impression needs to be taken out from the top. Polymer clay molds: How to use them (My molds are an organic form of polymer, binder plant cellulose, crushed and powdered quarts, shell and ionomers which the latter is used for enamel on teeth) I have used this for years and it workds very well. My molds are guaranteed for life or I will replaces. (not recommended for resins as I do not know what type of caustic compounds different resins may have in them) READ ALL OF THE DIRECTIONS Always keep your clay in a cool dark place (do not work on a plastic table with any molds of this type. Use a wax paper to cover, Wipe your hands frequently with baby wipes and keep your space very clean along with your hands. There are many types of clay you can use but we will go with polymer clay. Polymer clay is very hard once baked in your oven or toaster oven. Bake it according to directions on packet. Polymer clay brand names are Sculpey, premo, Kato, and follow directions on package for baking. I use a tile to bake my polymer clay projects. Remember, You only need an oven to make an awesome work of art, you do not need a kiln for polymer clay How do you remove polymer clay from the molds? Use different methods regarding the depth of the mold. I pour a little baby powder on the inside of the mold. I less messy way is to use a soft make up brush, Use baby powder, do not use cornstarch as it stays in little lumps and will ruin your impression.Blow out excess clay. Always condition (My wedging or kneading) your clay before you push it in the mold. I takes a little practice to be able to measure the amount of clay needed and many methods to get it right. It isn’t rocket science and very easy to trim up. I always like to put a little powder on the side of the flattened out clay (the side that touches the mold when it is pressed into the mold before I put the clay into the powdered mold. On shallow molds, it just takes a little pressing, If you are a beginner, make a few. the clay into the mold, filling it from the center out. There are so many methods: some like to just spread the clay to the edge of the impression, not beyond it. I like to spread the clay beyond the edge of the imkpression on the mold and then trim the edges after I do clean up work on the positive (The clay for that comes out of the mold) Some mold uses like to fold the eadges of the clay that are hanging out back into the mold, Carfully leveling the backside and making less trimming of the clay. Just hole the clay in your hand and fold and push the clay away from the edges pushing it towards the center of the mold.. I use this method and I would consider it an advanced technique. My daughter just gets it in, then takes the impression out, placing it directly on a little tile and then puts it in the fridge (not the mold, just the impression that comes from the mold) After 10 minutes she holds the figural in her hand, it is a little hard from being in the fridge and then she trims the sides and back, The front of the unbaked figural is being held carefully The clay should roll up at the edge so that it can be lifted from the mold. Face molds and deeper figural forms may either need to be wiggled out of the powdered mold straight up, Faces from the top or sideways. It isn’t rocket science. As an example, I leave the nostril nubbies in and therefore face impressions need to be taken out from the top, because if you pull them out from the bottom it distorts the nose. Each deep mold is different, you just need to try it once to see how to take out the impression to prevent distortion. You can leave excess clay on the center back to use as a handle. Lift the clay by its handle, let it rest for about 10 minutes to firm up, then trim off the excess clay with a blade or scissors. Deeper mold forms require another strategy for removing clay. Follow dusting with powder above as that is your release agent: Again, I just pour the baby or body powder right onto the mold. Then blow the excess off, taking care not to breathe in as I do this.Or use a soft brush or cottom and dust the mold. Do not leave any clumps of clay within the mold. I do not dust the softened clay before I begin pushing it in the mold as I do with the flattened clay for the shallow molds. My molds are thick and dense made with a misture of polymer clays. It is a very hard and water proof substance once baked. Military weapons are made from polymer which is actually a form of this type of polymer. If one makes pendants out of them they do not get hot if your are playing in the sun, they are waterproof pretty and durable. You are going to need to push, push and push into the deepest part of the mold. Always hold the mold in your hand and do not set it down on a hard surface to use the mold. You will know if you have pushed the softened clay into the mold sufficiently when the nose is not rounded or flat on the tip and they eye and mouth detail is nice and crisp. Again, there are so many techniques used to insure the clay form is perfect, either trim afterwards or follow the directions above and keep pushing the edges back towards the center. I always leave clay at the top and the last thing I do is to push the excess clay back up towards the top and over the edge, using that as a tab to put the impression face form (or animal face, etc) from the mold. Sometime you must loosen the edges all around the mold. Use the mold. Do not let your impression sit in the mold as it may stick together if you have not used enough powder. It should take between 30 seconds and no more than 2 minutes until you pull your impression out of the mold. For my 3 to 6 inche molds, it may take up to 20 minutes to use one of the big molds. My bigger molds have a double layer and a spine on the back made of crushed quarts rock and Ionomers. I make an organic hard polymer clay using a binger of plant cellulose. I make the molds durable so that they can also be used for thicker high fire clays. Every form comes out differently. Sometime leaving a tab on top works I just carved a beautiful face, but I had to powder my finger and make the face concave in the back (bowl shaped) for the face form to come out perfect. My face and animal molds are taken from carvings, not metal flat stampings although our second ebay store carries those. So there may be slight flaws as some of the faces are carved with a knife. The exact face will be pictured in the description. If the clay does not release easily, wiggle it. Use scissors or a sharp blade to trim off any excess clay. I just pour the baby powder right on the mold and then I blow it off. Or get a nice make-up brush or little paint brush and powder the mold. Always use a nice baby powder. You do not want any clumps of powder left on the clay. Always Knead your polymer clay and then wedge the other types of clays to get the air bubble out. Polymer clay warms up nicely and becomes a consistency like gum. I like to fold it over in my palms to make it soft and then mix different brands of polymer clays to get my own preferred color, but mix well.(Hint to remember) in the summer or around the nose, mouth, eyes, Flatter molds are not so difficult to use but a beginner can accomplish this with a few tries. 2. Starting at the nose area, push push push, my molds will take it, You don't have to push too hard, just several pushes. It may take a few tries. Do not lift it up to see how it is going. You may need to hold your finger down on the other side while you push. I leave a tab on the top so that I can pull the clay impression out. I also loosen the sides before pulling it out as this loosens the face. If you find that your clay impression is sort of stuck in the mold, you might want to take a needle and pop of the the nostrils off from the inside of the mold taking care not to scratch the mold. For you I have taken out the undercuts and made the mold easy to use. Advanced mold users like the nostrils kept in. I like to flatten the back out right before I take the impression out of the mold. but many people wait and then they trim after it is if you are sitting and over between my palms and then roll it and fold over a few times. You can mix colors, mix different next to a fireplace, stick the mold in the fridge for about 3 minutes. That is if your clay is sticky. If you let your clay become hard, you can mix it with fresh clay and then let it sit and it will soften up. I am old and have arthritis. I find the kneading thing very helpful for my joints. Written out instructions below without visuals…. 1. Flattened out softened clay into disk shape about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick after you have kneaded it. The fresh clay will be soft. Then take your finger and stick it in some baby powder and also powder the flattened side of your clay disk. Then take your powdered mold and HOLD IT IN YOUR HAND, do not sit it down on a hard surface, but hold it and then begin pushing the powdered side of your clay disk down into the mold, (face olds are a little harder to use as they have deep furrows from the excised areas baked, You can use a sharp paring knife or a craft razor blade to trim the back. It is easy to do about 15 minutes after coming out of the oven. 3. When you take your clay out of the impression (before you bake the positive (Never bake the mold with the clay inside) you do not need to put my molds in your oven if you do not work with PMC. (They have their own method for Precious metal clays which also work in my molds) They sit the mold in a warm open oven or on the door and let it harden. That’s all I know about pmc. Back to polymer clay; So put your impression right on a little tile once you pull it from the mold. You may use oven bake plates also. Powder the plate or tile before you set your impression down. You do not need to go out and buy a bunch of expensive carving tools. Have your baby powder handy. I have expensive tools as I am a high fire potter, but I use different sized sewing needles for polymer clay, I love to use the nice smooth tips of knitting needles especially to smooth around the eye areas if needed. I have a favorite paring knife. If you do not pull your faces straight out of the mold, sort of wiggling it out from the top, the nose may be a little off, just take the side of your knitting needle, powder it slightly and gently push it back. You can reshape the face features, with a little experience you can totally change the appearance of the impressions you get from the molds. You have experience with ceramics so you already have the basics. 4. Once you feel like the clean up is finished on the front part of the face, take a very fine little soft paint brush and then smooth the face out with mineral face powders. (works the best) so my daughter's tell me when they get into my expensive mineral powders. Or use a Q-tip and on the cheek and above eyebrows use your powdered finger. you can put a little baby powder or eye shadow on your finger to smooth this area out. You can also use the copper powders, (toxic around kids and the other fine grained craft powders. My daughter says that the eye shadow powders work better. 5. Trim the sides before you bake. I sometimes set the impression in the fridge (not in the mold) but I let it get sort of cold before I trim the sides. Many artists bake the faces first and then add to the project so the face doesn't get smashed in. It is a simple process and if you try it, you will have no problems. Dos and don'ts: Do not bake the clay in the mold. Do powder the mold if you are using polymer clay air dried clay, paper mache, craft porcelain. Resins may need oil. I do not recommend soap, wax, food or resins, but people do use them for that. Do use polymer clays such as sculpey III, Premo, Kato, Fimo. I do not like Fimo My own opinion. There are several others coming out. You must use Sculpey III faster than other clays as it hardens after a few months Do not use the clay softener that comes in a little bottlle like glue. It is nasty and then your clay impression will never cure right when baked. There is a shelf life with polymer clay. Do not buy a bunch of clay and expect that it will be fresh a year from now. It will harden. One of my sons (all grown) just smashes the hardened clay out and puts it in with any fresh polymer clay for a few days and it becomes soft again. It is a pain, I throw it away. Once I bought some clay online and did not ask if the clay was fresh, it was rock hard. Then they sent some of that clay softener, Yukko. I threw that out too. Do dust off all powder if you make a mistake before you smash it back up and use over again. Do not push hard clay into any molds whether they are mine or someone else's. If you have kneaded your clay (wedged) the purpose is to soften it and to get all air bubble out of the clay. Do not let is sit and get cold as it needs to be soft to be pushed into the mold. My molds work for many types of clay. If you forget to powder the mold and clay gets stuck in there. Carefully wash the mold using dish soap and luke warm water. Do not scrap the inside out as you may damage the details within. Use a Q-tip. I always powder my molds and have never needed to get clay out of the crevises. Some people will put a mold in the freezer if they forget the powder and then the clay comes out for them they say, but I have never had to try that before. You can use water as a release agent. You will read on some instructions that you can use spit. (Give me a break) And if you get a very smooth mold on the outside, know that many mold makers use their own spit to smooth the surface. (I DO NOT DO THAT) Nasty…. Do take the time to smooth out your impression before it is baked and you can use a very fine small paintbrush to go over the surface with a very fine mineral powder. (I’m just saying….the expensive mineral powder that I buy for myself (real face mineral powders) work the best. I learned this technique from my daughters. (Day—um!) I either have to put up with the dog eating the molds and clay figurals, or my daughters using my expensive mineral face powder for their dolls. Laugh….. Do feel free to call the impression that comes out of the mold your own as every artist will put their own twist on it. We are sharing with other artists so that they can use these for their art projects. We do offer the rights to specific designs sometimes upon request but that is an extra charge to purchase the rights to sell molds to my designs. 020797110104 .

Price: 11.99 USD

Location: Tipton, California

End Time: 2024-01-20T17:25:34.000Z

Shipping Cost: 4.95 USD